Eric Bergeson: Tuile, madeira, lutefisk — accidents happen
You know how when you bake a pizza and some of the cheese falls off and gets burnt to the tray and how if you scrape the burnt cheese off it is the best part?
Well, French chefs create that burnt cheese deliberately.
They sprinkle grated cheese on a pan with a little butter and take a propane torch to it until it gets nice and burnt.
Then they scrape the burnt stuff off in the form of hard little crackers which they use to garnish other dishes.
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